Just curious... <_< ... >_>
Just curious... <_< ... >_>
Jeff Spicoli: Doesn't that stuff cause brain damage? Stoner Buddy: Only if you did it every day for a month.
Jeff Spicolii ...Bitchin
both major plants in pic of left are cannabis.
If you grow outside in california you can reach close to a 2lb per plant
If you grow in a closet indoors a qp with a good plant.
If you grow in your basement with lights & shit, a lb if you're good.
I'm not here to make someone else rich.
Art shop; Etsy.com/shop/jonhelander
It just depends.
On the species.
The soil on which it is grown / ph values.
Available nutrients / ec. values.
Inside or outside.
How much lumen are put on the chlorofyl for photosynthesis.
And loads more!
Some grower here had this plant, it was called "Grapefruit".
Grown outside, next to a pond. It yielded 1.2 kilo. DRY!
The stem was fatter then a coke can, it was not even a meter high,
and it was over 1.2 square meters in diameter
This was during a good summer.
Inside, a seedling put into 12 / 12 cycle right away, depending on the species and other variables:
20 - 40 grams of dry clean cannabis.
Put that seedling into a photo cycle of 16 / 8 or 24 / 0 or whatever for a long time,
make it grow to the heavens, then the sky is the limit
Knock yourself out.
One can never tell you how much can be harvested from one plant, ever
What i would like to add is this;
a rough estimate can be made, and always is made by seed companies for example.
So, in theory one can make an estimate, not per plant but per square meter.
But still, there is a margin of about 30% - 40%.
So, is that really accurate enough? Because i don't think so.
You like it; i like it; we like it futuristic.
it depends really how big do you WANT to grow your plant?
most people would work for a best yield as possible per m2 taking into consideration, legality, ease of maintance, cost economy.
when i was doing plants i supposed i averaged around 5-1/2oz per plant 6 plants per 600w growspace, ( some would be 4oz others 7oz) soil
doing 12 plants in the same area the average not quite halved per plant.(2oz to 5oz) soil
doing 3 it not quite doubled..(one big fuker took over 10oz other two 3oz) soil
single ones 14-17oz (in dwc)
that was with a more or less hassle free maintance/watering schedule, kept simple so not much could go wrong.
damn i miss it :cry:
Stupid beginner question:
I am reading on how to grow as a novice. After harvesting weed can the plant regenerate more bud at a later time? I was thinking a couple plants would be ideal for personal use only, nothing fancy or for sale, just for a guy who smokes everyday to unwind from that horrible place we all call work!
yes that is possible but it takes to long for the plant to return to vegetative to be considered worthwhile unless you need the genetics, its much faster to grow from seed or clone
I can give an example of what a perfect 3600 watt HPS (6-lite/600watt Hortilux) indoor flowering room can yield in my dreams. It will take many 10's of thousands of words and endless pages for me to give you the best that can be achieved on earth with an indoor clandestine dream of this size. If you have $60,000 burning a hole in your pocket and the patience of a saint, I can tell you what to do if you want to be the most advanced and highest yielding dreamer. You would need 12' length x 7' width x 6'3"-6'7" high. Use 18qty. of Rubbermaid 20 gallon totes arranged in 6 rows of 3. Each tote is 28" long from handle to handle so 3 totes fit perfectly width wise. Keep the first row of 3 totes only a few inches from the width wall. Maybe 3".
So you have the first row (of 3 totes) set 3" from the left (width) wall. The totes are 17.25" wide. So the next row of 3 totes is 4" away from the first row (thereby repeating a 4" gap between all 6 rows of totes (18 in all). At inch marker 126.5" (0 being at the left (width) wall) is the edge of the last row of totes. There will be a 17.5" gap between the edge of the last row of totes and the right (width) wall of the room. The room will be wall to wall mylar coated polystyrene (2" x 4" frame in detachable 4' wide sections for access (no doors, we don't need them because when we dream in the secret garden we set it and forget for another 65 days, and then we pull the walls themselves quickly out of the way and back in place again as fast as you would take a piss).
So far you have arranged 18-20 gallon brute totes in a 12 x 7 room. The room is silver foam. There are 9 batwing style (simple) reflectors equidistant above.The 9 x 400 watt Hortilux Blue will be set about 15" lower then the maximum afforded height of your standard 6'7" basement in the beginning of veg (assuming the dreamed of cuts were pre-struck in another area and have plenty of white hair below).You will transition from veg stage to flowering stage by lifting your marionette style 9-gang fixture from 2 floors above this basement room. All of the fixtures are hung from 1/2" rigid aluminum conduit which is routed through a 12" wide x 16" long rectangular duct which is located in the ceiling above each fixture ( the fixture will overlap the rectangular duct hole just enough to not permit light teak).
This way there is a rectangular duct originating from the ceiling of the room (just above each of the 9 fixtures, 9 ducts in all) routing through the floor above and out of the 2nd floor (we started from the basement, went through the 1st floor and ended on the second floor). This way heat travels straight up from whence it came, at the source... thereby minimizes heat mixing throughout the lower column of the room.
The 9 gang light fixture which has no connection whatsoever to the basement room allows you 1 unprecedented advantage amongst other super advantages. You may access the light fixture without having to traverse the room itself. No need to disturb the plants in your dreams. Change bulbs and remove the entire fixture (if you so desire at anytime you want) when entering different stages. For example, I will open an access panel located at the bottom of the 12" x 16" duct riser (near the floor, in the room above "the room" on the 1st floor). I stick my hand down on a 1/4"-20 wing nut on either side of the top of 1 of 9 of the light fixtures . I loosen it and the other, freeing the still electrically connected ( with wire slack) light fixture. I put it on the floor in front of the duct opening and then I undo a pair of Male/female Amp 18-22 disconnects. The cable stays in the duct (capped). Through this 16" x 16" access panel in the side of the riser duct located on the first floor above the basement room I see 1/2" rigid aluminum conduit extending downward from the second floor. At the end where the fixture was supported is a 1/2" threaded aluminum tee conduit body (or condolet) just parallel and 2 inches below the ceiling of the basement "room".
A piece of 1/2" rigid aluminum conduit is tightly attached at each end of the TEE condolet (a small nipple of a piece, maybe 7"-8" right and left (don't forget the piece it all hangs from that comes all the way down through the duct from the 2nd floor, 2 floors above. That piece is a 10 foot length plus a 30" length ). A few 1/4"-20's are sticking up through the left and right side top of each fixture and 1/4"-20 nuts are sandwiching the fixture and stab through a hole at the end of each 7 or 8 inch piece that is attached on either side of the TEE condolet. The access and fixture are all the same at all 9. You can change a bulb or even a fixture from the first floor above the basement room.
So I'm used to dreaming with 9 fixtures in the beginning (x400 watt Hortilux Blue) and then I remove the 3 fixtures in the middle ( so I'm left with 6, but you dream of changing the bulbs to 600 watt without disturbing the dream plants downstairs, allowing you to use the full footprint of the room for greatness) . I plug each rectangular duct hole in the middle row of ceiling duct openings with a silver mylar covered plywood backed rectangle that attaches to the TEE condolet fixture holder, but you disconnect the MAY WEST link at the top of the 12.5'- 1/2" aluminum rigid conduit stem. This link holds the fixture stem and prevents the stem from a removed fixture from going up and down with the rest of the bottle jack operated 200 lb. 9-gang fixture that originates from the 2nd floor!!! To be continued...
The fixture consists of 9-12.5' lengths of aluminum rigid electrical conduit with 1/4" holes drilled up top about 3/4" from the end that is sticking up into the 2nd floor air handling room. This is where we see 9- 12 x 16 inch ducts in the floor and coming out of those ducts are the 1/2" conduits that hold the fixtures all the way down in the basement. We place a 1/4"-20 bolt, about 2" long, through the MAY WEST and the end of the pipe. The 3/4" MAY WEST is properly surrounding a 10' long piece of 3/4" rigid galvanized electrical conduit. This length of 3/4" rigid electrical conduit is holding 3 fixtures in (1 of the 3 rows) in a row with exactly the same MAY WEST linking method. It is like we made a letter m with 3 pieces of 1/2 inch aluminum perpendicular to one piece of 3/4" rigid.
So imagine we have three of these letter m's about 2 feet away from each other. Just arrange each of the three gang (3 x 3= 9gang) fixture holders in such a way that the middle row is located down the middle of the room, but Rows 1 and 3 are as close to the wall as possible. If you don't do it that way, you will have very little light along the first foot along the length on either side of the room. The fixtures are DIY Adjust-a W*** style mediu* with Su**r Spr**d**. Also arrange the winged fixtures so the bulbs are parallel to the width of the room, no exceptions.
2-10 foot long x 2" rigid galvanized electrical conduit will bisect from underneath each of the 3-3/4" rigid conduits for support. Stretching between both of the 2" conduits(so as to support the conduits and ultimately the entire remotely operated 9-gang super chandelier, is a rectangle of such dimensions, materials and cross-section... pay attention: First visualize 2-42" long x 2" galvanized pipes, thats 2 pieces. Then 2-20" long x 2" galvanized (or rigid, same thing) pipes. Now use short threaded 90 degree plumbers elbows ( 4 of them) to make a rectangle of pipe. Now put 2 layers of 3/4" CDX plywood underneath that pipe rectangle. Put a bottle jack underneath that rectangular chandelier support. All the while, the ends of the 2-2" rigid pipes are held captive from side to side travel by drilling 1-1/8" holes at each end about 2" away from the very tip of each and holding those pipes up with mounted vertically oriented 3/8" threaded rods which only allow the chandelier to be guided up or down and not side to side. The 3/8" nuts and washers are moved down while the bottle jack holds the chandelier in place and then pressure is released form the jack until the 2" rigid is let down on to the 3/8" nut and washer ( at 4 points of course), thats how you up to 9 fixtures simultaneously downward.
To move the chandelier upward, there are pieces of 1/2" pvc MPT adapters jammed into the end of the 2" rigid "guide rod holes" to allow for smooth up and down movement which prevents the rod from scraping against the holes in the metal conduit. Just lift the bottle jack up to the maximum length if need be ( never set-up a mega chandelier such that the bottle jack can lift the fixtures past the ceiling thereby destroying them) and then manually raise the 3/8" nuts and support washers upward along the 4 guide rods which hold and stabilize the entire chandelier at the 4 corners of the 2-10 foot lengths of 2" chandelier support conduit until the 4 foot level is satisfied across all four corners and set the 3/8" nuts and washers at their new height. ALL WITHOUT EVER DISTURBING A DREAM PLANT. This is the only way to do that without making any disturbance whatsoever to the environment of "the room".
The room where you just adjusted the height of 9 fixtures (weighing over 200 lbs, possibly 250) is also the air handling room. It contains your exhaust fans, carbon filters, ballasts and lighting contractors. The unwanted ballast heat is 2 stories above the dream plants. So is the heat from the lighting contactor. We will come back to the air handling room later. Please allow me to re-jog the mental picture I want you to have so far. You have a basement 9 gang light fixture that originates from and is operated from not 1 floor above the basement, but 2. On the 2nd floor in the air handling room. There are 9-12"x16" duct openings above 9 light fixtures which can be 9- 400 watt metal halide(for vegging stage) or 6- 600 watt hps (for flowering stage) by removing the 3 middle fixtures and easily (almost seamlessly) plugging the middle row of basement ceiling ducts that are located above the 3 fixtures we removed to make a transition from 9-400w MH to 6-600 watt HPS.
The "room" (in the basement, of course, you know by now because you are paying attention) is wall to wall silver coated foam insulation board and framed with 2x4's.4 x 4 foot sections of the walls are removed(and re-inserted there after) for easy access at the inception of vegging dream plants. The same 4 x 4 foot wall sections are removed when the dream plants are 30 inches tall and then we tilt them over a full 90 degrees ( we can do this because there is no media to make the base of the plant stiff, we are advanced jedi lords of the dream plant and we never use things like hydraton, rock wool, dirt, sand, gravel, used condoms, defocation, lost hopes, broken dreams or dead puppies in the root zone.This way you are not lying when you tell someone that you know how to dream hydroponically. Hydro means water and dissolved nutes in the root zone. Add 2-9" round aluminum oxide air stones into each Rubbermaid 20 gallon tote and a water level controller for each 20 gallon tote with a separate Reverse Osmosis top off zone for each 20 gallon tote and now each plant is independent from all the other 18 plants.
No plumbing between each 20 gallon tote. O.K..... So I went off on a tangent on the way down from the air handling room ( also known as the fixture room). We're in the basement dream flowering room. We are standing below one of the 9 light fixtures on the right side (width) wall where we have a 17.5" gap from the wall and the edge of the last row of rubbermaid 20 gallon brute totes ( 6 rows of 3 totes) each tote being 28 inches long from handle to handle and 17.25" wide. Now I tell you how to drill the lid (with almost GPS precision) for all the peripherals which include:
1.)2-9" round airstones(with valves for precise set and adjustment) with a combined output of .74 cfm (that's a ridiculous amount of oxygen for a 20 gallon DWC container, Heath Robinson will be jealous.
2.) A 1-1/2" detachable white pvc pipe vacuum inlet which sits just a 1/2" above the bottom of the 20 gallon container so that you may attach a shop vac hose to quickly evacuate all the water without ever damaging roots because the mouth of the inlet is all the way in the corner of the container behind a curtain of rushing air bubbles (roots won't go or settle there)
3.) A non-contact liquid level sensor that I will never tell you how to build (only will give clues). I will give you every last excruciating detail of how to build my system except for the only detail that makes it possible. If you do not figure out how to make the level sensor yourself, you do not deserve to partake in this vision quest. In fact, you will not be able to.Take it or leave it. Nobody is spoon fed. Ever.
4.) A 3" PVC male adapter (this is where the dream plant sits, only in your mind of course)
5.) 2-1/2" pvc vents for good ventilation of the airspace between the bottom of the 20 gallon container lid and the top of the water surface (air/water interface).
6.) 3-1/4" OD LLDPE tubes are also stuck into the lid. One protrudes to the bottom of the 20 gallon container so that you may extract a water sample from afar. The other is used as a syringe injection tube for KOH and nutrient mixes. The third LLDPE tube is for the Reverse Osmosis top off water which is added back as it evaporates. The top secret level sensor which I will never tell you how to create (you must figure it out with my clues later on) is what controls this feed tube. The end of that feed tube is held above the air/water interface.
I will continue this tomorrow... before I go on, let me make myself clear. Weather or not you have the time or attention span it is all up to you. If you happen to be as dedicated as I am and you have searched far and wide for the Holy Grail of reasonably sized dream production set-ups, I kid you not, what I am about to detail and specify is the best possible way of using 3600 watts of lighting indoors. Please stay with me and be patient, I will give you everything in a box . You simply have to find the key (the mystery level sensor). Tomorrow will be the exact co-ordinates and exact sizes of the holes to be drilled in the lid of each of the 18-20 gallon Brute totes.
P.S. I'll be done hijacking this thread by Wednesday. When I'm done (if you read everything and take it seriously) you will have amassed all there is to know about indoor "dreaming". Or you could all fag out and report me for hijacking the thread and maybe , if you're lucky... 50 maybe 60 years from now one of my Grandchildren will finally reveal the secret to multiple container DWC with no connected plumbing that gets auto top off from one ro filter. Just thought I'd let you know that it doesn't for anybody else but me. I get the same freedom of individual soil container gardening without any work that is associated with maintaining media whatsoever. Please think about that and what it allows you to do as a dream grower. For example: dream with as many strains as you have containers regardless of the flowering time. One container has a leak and it's no big deal because there is no connected plumbing that would have made it a system wide fatalistic disaster. Pull entire plants out of the room without disturbing roots and disturbing other plants. Do I have to go on. Just give me a few days and I promise you will have a treasure trove of info. If I have to move it to my own thread so be it, but it is only with my way can you get the maximum yield possible indoors with 3600 watts of HPS.
You should be able to get 9 oz. of OG#18 per site (18 sites in all) with the method I am about to detail in the next few days. 6-7oz. of Reserva Privada Sour Diesel and about the same(6-7 oz.) with DNA LA Confidential if you veg for 6 weeks (although you will only need 3 weeks of veg for either OG#18 or the Reserva Sour diesel for the aforementioned approximate yields). In the coming days I will post at least 30 times more words than the 2 previous posts combined. If you are smart enough to heed my advice you should be able to take over your region ( a market of a 5 mile radius) after 6 years of non-stop megalomania and following my rules. Later on I will include the commandments on how to stay a clandestine dreamer without anybody coming over unexpectedly to wake you from your dreams.
Last edited by Tuesday Afternoon; 29th October 2013 at 21:59. Reason: Just felt like.
OK... now I will plot the co-ordinates of the 12 holes that must be drilled into the lid of each of the 18-20 gallon Rubbermaid Brute totes (each of these containers will hold one dream plant and they will not have any plumbing that connects each body of water together, thereby making this the worlds most unique DWC system to be situated in a 12 x 7 room with a 6'7" ceiling).
The long side of the Rubbermaid 20 gallon tote lid will be our Y-axis. The shorts side will be our X-axis. So get that graph paper (or the actual lid itself) and plot from Y0 up to Y25.5. Now also plot from X0 up to X17.5. The units are inches. So now you have a rectangular graph to simulate the dimensions of a Rubbermaid Brute 20 gallon tote lid. The holes (9 of which are made with the exact sizes of hole saws I tell you to use and 2 of which are made with a 1/4" metal twist bit and 1 is made with a 21/64 metal twist bit (this hole in particular is threaded with 1/8"-27 tpi tap to accommodate a 1/8" thread (1/4" OD) john guest MPT push fitting adapter. Never stray from my exact numbers unless you're a big fan of failure).
Hole #1;Y22.5625,X2.5625;made with 1.375" hole saw. Hole#2;Y23.5,X3.875;made with .75" hole saw. Hole #3;Y12.75,X8.625;made with 3.375" hole saw.Hole #4;Y3.5,X5.40625;made with 2.3125" hole saw.Hole#5;Y4,X3.5;made with 2.25" hole saw.Hole #6;Y1.8125,X12.875;made with .75" hole saw. Hole #7;Y14.25,X2.75; made with 1.375" hole saw. Hole # 8;Y4,X11.59375;made with 2.3125" hole saw. Hole#9;Y3.5,X8.625;made with 2.3125" hole saw. Hole #10;Y2,X2;made with .25" metal twist drill bit. Hole #11;Y12.5,X2; made with .328125" metal twist drill bit. Hole #12;Y23,X15;made with .25" metal twist drill bit.
Those are all the holes.The reason why the holes must be made with precisely the exact hole saw mentioned (or drill bit mentioned) is because the fitting that will later be put through each hole will make a tight seal that will not allow water to splash up and out through the top of the lid.
Get those holes drilled through the lid.No holes will ever be made in the container itself, yes, this DWC system is flood proof because of that. No other DWC system is flood proof, only mine. Tomorrow I will tell you how to produce the stem that attaches to the 9" round aluminum oxide air stones (there are 2 air stones in the bottom of the tote that require 2 special stems that ultimately attach to an air distribution manifold).
I will also let you know, that in the Summer of 2014 (maybe sooner) I will show you many photos of the system in action. It will not be through this website, but those who are interested in being kings of their craft may check it out elsewhere if they want to PM me (later on) to find where these photos will be. Just let me remind you, to dream this big it requires at least $60,000 (and a 2 story house with a full basement). If you want to make just one unit you will not reap the rewards that enable you to destroy your competition (in your dreams, of course).
Are you smashing so much air into your dwc the plant root zone is if you put your hand in 'frothy' is the feel Tuesday? Sounds like you have a varient 02 (air) saturated dwc solution. I mean if you measured the saturation level it isn't truly saturated, but the root zone I suspect been a mass of bubbles-frothy compensates. Heaths dwc variant compensates with hi-flow. 60k is a fucking huge investment, good luck btw
Thank You. I'll continue this thread soon. Been busy with life. Peace