The fixture consists of 9-12.5' lengths of aluminum rigid electrical conduit with 1/4" holes drilled up top about 3/4" from the end that is sticking up into the 2nd floor air handling room. This is where we see 9- 12 x 16 inch ducts in the floor and coming out of those ducts are the 1/2" conduits that hold the fixtures all the way down in the basement. We place a 1/4"-20 bolt, about 2" long, through the MAY WEST and the end of the pipe. The 3/4" MAY WEST is properly surrounding a 10' long piece of 3/4" rigid galvanized electrical conduit. This length of 3/4" rigid electrical conduit is holding 3 fixtures in (1 of the 3 rows) in a row with exactly the same MAY WEST linking method. It is like we made a letter m with 3 pieces of 1/2 inch aluminum perpendicular to one piece of 3/4" rigid.
So imagine we have three of these letter m's about 2 feet away from each other. Just arrange each of the three gang (3 x 3= 9gang) fixture holders in such a way that the middle row is located down the middle of the room, but Rows 1 and 3 are as close to the wall as possible. If you don't do it that way, you will have very little light along the first foot along the length on either side of the room. The fixtures are DIY Adjust-a W*** style mediu* with Su**r Spr**d**. Also arrange the winged fixtures so the bulbs are parallel to the width of the room, no exceptions.
2-10 foot long x 2" rigid galvanized electrical conduit will bisect from underneath each of the 3-3/4" rigid conduits for support. Stretching between both of the 2" conduits(so as to support the conduits and ultimately the entire remotely operated 9-gang super chandelier, is a rectangle of such dimensions, materials and cross-section... pay attention: First visualize 2-42" long x 2" galvanized pipes, thats 2 pieces. Then 2-20" long x 2" galvanized (or rigid, same thing) pipes. Now use short threaded 90 degree plumbers elbows ( 4 of them) to make a rectangle of pipe. Now put 2 layers of 3/4" CDX plywood underneath that pipe rectangle. Put a bottle jack underneath that rectangular chandelier support. All the while, the ends of the 2-2" rigid pipes are held captive from side to side travel by drilling 1-1/8" holes at each end about 2" away from the very tip of each and holding those pipes up with mounted vertically oriented 3/8" threaded rods which only allow the chandelier to be guided up or down and not side to side. The 3/8" nuts and washers are moved down while the bottle jack holds the chandelier in place and then pressure is released form the jack until the 2" rigid is let down on to the 3/8" nut and washer ( at 4 points of course), thats how you up to 9 fixtures simultaneously downward.
To move the chandelier upward, there are pieces of 1/2" pvc MPT adapters jammed into the end of the 2" rigid "guide rod holes" to allow for smooth up and down movement which prevents the rod from scraping against the holes in the metal conduit. Just lift the bottle jack up to the maximum length if need be ( never set-up a mega chandelier such that the bottle jack can lift the fixtures past the ceiling thereby destroying them) and then manually raise the 3/8" nuts and support washers upward along the 4 guide rods which hold and stabilize the entire chandelier at the 4 corners of the 2-10 foot lengths of 2" chandelier support conduit until the 4 foot level is satisfied across all four corners and set the 3/8" nuts and washers at their new height. ALL WITHOUT EVER DISTURBING A DREAM PLANT. This is the only way to do that without making any disturbance whatsoever to the environment of "the room".
The room where you just adjusted the height of 9 fixtures (weighing over 200 lbs, possibly 250) is also the air handling room. It contains your exhaust fans, carbon filters, ballasts and lighting contractors. The unwanted ballast heat is 2 stories above the dream plants. So is the heat from the lighting contactor. We will come back to the air handling room later. Please allow me to re-jog the mental picture I want you to have so far. You have a basement 9 gang light fixture that originates from and is operated from not 1 floor above the basement, but 2. On the 2nd floor in the air handling room. There are 9-12"x16" duct openings above 9 light fixtures which can be 9- 400 watt metal halide(for vegging stage) or 6- 600 watt hps (for flowering stage) by removing the 3 middle fixtures and easily (almost seamlessly) plugging the middle row of basement ceiling ducts that are located above the 3 fixtures we removed to make a transition from 9-400w MH to 6-600 watt HPS.
The "room" (in the basement, of course, you know by now because you are paying attention) is wall to wall silver coated foam insulation board and framed with 2x4's.4 x 4 foot sections of the walls are removed(and re-inserted there after) for easy access at the inception of vegging dream plants. The same 4 x 4 foot wall sections are removed when the dream plants are 30 inches tall and then we tilt them over a full 90 degrees ( we can do this because there is no media to make the base of the plant stiff, we are advanced jedi lords of the dream plant and we never use things like hydraton, rock wool, dirt, sand, gravel, used condoms, defocation, lost hopes, broken dreams or dead puppies in the root zone.This way you are not lying when you tell someone that you know how to dream hydroponically. Hydro means water and dissolved nutes in the root zone. Add 2-9" round aluminum oxide air stones into each Rubbermaid 20 gallon tote and a water level controller for each 20 gallon tote with a separate Reverse Osmosis top off zone for each 20 gallon tote and now each plant is independent from all the other 18 plants.
No plumbing between each 20 gallon tote. O.K..... So I went off on a tangent on the way down from the air handling room ( also known as the fixture room). We're in the basement dream flowering room. We are standing below one of the 9 light fixtures on the right side (width) wall where we have a 17.5" gap from the wall and the edge of the last row of rubbermaid 20 gallon brute totes ( 6 rows of 3 totes) each tote being 28 inches long from handle to handle and 17.25" wide. Now I tell you how to drill the lid (with almost GPS precision) for all the peripherals which include:
1.)2-9" round airstones(with valves for precise set and adjustment) with a combined output of .74 cfm (that's a ridiculous amount of oxygen for a 20 gallon DWC container, Heath Robinson will be jealous.
2.) A 1-1/2" detachable white pvc pipe vacuum inlet which sits just a 1/2" above the bottom of the 20 gallon container so that you may attach a shop vac hose to quickly evacuate all the water without ever damaging roots because the mouth of the inlet is all the way in the corner of the container behind a curtain of rushing air bubbles (roots won't go or settle there)
3.) A non-contact liquid level sensor that I will never tell you how to build (only will give clues). I will give you every last excruciating detail of how to build my system except for the only detail that makes it possible. If you do not figure out how to make the level sensor yourself, you do not deserve to partake in this vision quest. In fact, you will not be able to.Take it or leave it. Nobody is spoon fed. Ever.
4.) A 3" PVC male adapter (this is where the dream plant sits, only in your mind of course)
5.) 2-1/2" pvc vents for good ventilation of the airspace between the bottom of the 20 gallon container lid and the top of the water surface (air/water interface).
6.) 3-1/4" OD LLDPE tubes are also stuck into the lid. One protrudes to the bottom of the 20 gallon container so that you may extract a water sample from afar. The other is used as a syringe injection tube for KOH and nutrient mixes. The third LLDPE tube is for the Reverse Osmosis top off water which is added back as it evaporates. The top secret level sensor which I will never tell you how to create (you must figure it out with my clues later on) is what controls this feed tube. The end of that feed tube is held above the air/water interface.
I will continue this tomorrow... before I go on, let me make myself clear. Weather or not you have the time or attention span it is all up to you. If you happen to be as dedicated as I am and you have searched far and wide for the Holy Grail of reasonably sized dream production set-ups, I kid you not, what I am about to detail and specify is the best possible way of using 3600 watts of lighting indoors. Please stay with me and be patient, I will give you everything in a box . You simply have to find the key (the mystery level sensor). Tomorrow will be the exact co-ordinates and exact sizes of the holes to be drilled in the lid of each of the 18-20 gallon Brute totes.
P.S. I'll be done hijacking this thread by Wednesday. When I'm done (if you read everything and take it seriously) you will have amassed all there is to know about indoor "dreaming". Or you could all fag out and report me for hijacking the thread and maybe , if you're lucky... 50 maybe 60 years from now one of my Grandchildren will finally reveal the secret to multiple container DWC with no connected plumbing that gets auto top off from one ro filter. Just thought I'd let you know that it doesn't for anybody else but me. I get the same freedom of individual soil container gardening without any work that is associated with maintaining media whatsoever. Please think about that and what it allows you to do as a dream grower. For example: dream with as many strains as you have containers regardless of the flowering time. One container has a leak and it's no big deal because there is no connected plumbing that would have made it a system wide fatalistic disaster. Pull entire plants out of the room without disturbing roots and disturbing other plants. Do I have to go on. Just give me a few days and I promise you will have a treasure trove of info. If I have to move it to my own thread so be it, but it is only with my way can you get the maximum yield possible indoors with 3600 watts of HPS.
You should be able to get 9 oz. of OG#18 per site (18 sites in all) with the method I am about to detail in the next few days. 6-7oz. of Reserva Privada Sour Diesel and about the same(6-7 oz.) with DNA LA Confidential if you veg for 6 weeks (although you will only need 3 weeks of veg for either OG#18 or the Reserva Sour diesel for the aforementioned approximate yields). In the coming days I will post at least 30 times more words than the 2 previous posts combined. If you are smart enough to heed my advice you should be able to take over your region ( a market of a 5 mile radius) after 6 years of non-stop megalomania and following my rules. Later on I will include the commandments on how to stay a clandestine dreamer without anybody coming over unexpectedly to wake you from your dreams.